Building a Vivarium - Get into the hobby
So much goes into creating your ideal habitat. I’ll preface this entry by first asking these questions as they will lead to their own respective paths. I certainly urge you to consider them BEFORE going out and buying supplies, material and the livestock. Let my years of experience (in both successes and failures) save you money, time, frustration and lives (yes, frog lives, or perhaps you’re own. I’ll get to that later).
What is the purpose of this enclosure? Is it going to be for a display? is it a temporary grow out?
What type of animal will I be housing in this vivarium?
(more like 2a.) Will this be terrestrial, or arboreal?
What is my budget?
Where will I be putting this vivarium?
Ask yourself these questions first. They’re numbered but certainly not ranked in importance, as they will have their own pros/cons and serious considerations that may lead you down a different path once you’ve seriously considered them.
Let’s begin.
What is the purpose of this enclosure? (a beginner’s perspective)
Understanding what you want to get out of the vivarium will dictate certain parameters. Let’s pose a very common scenario and I’ll also make a few assumptions along the way. We will review this statement to start:
“I’m obsessed with pictures of these frogs and I’m so excited to have my own. I joined a few groups on Fakebook, did ALL my ‘research’ in the last 2 weeks by asking questions (in the said groups), and spoke to the experts at Petco/Petsmart. I stopped ordering venti mocha frappucino’s at Starbucks for the last 2 weeks and sold off my ball python collection, so I’ve definitely got enough saved up. I’m ready.”
- Future and soon-to-be dart frog expert, Joe
Okay, let’s indulge Joe’s recent obsession and try not to get into the pitfalls of his/her (yeah, it’s gender neutral) common situation as there are so many places to dig into with that assumed scenario.
Got it. First frogs, first vivarium.
For a first vivarium, let’s think about taking baby steps into the hobby. Again, Joe has a limited amount of funds, limited knowledge of dart frog husbandry, but UNLIMITED enthusiasm. To take the conservative approach, Joe should consider a small enclosure to get a perspective on what it takes to own these frogs. By smaller, we’ll consider the most readily available enclosure in the market; the inexpensive 10 gallon fish tank.
Before the introduction of front opening enclosures, 10 gallon tanks were a staple in the hobby and many frog keepers I know have kept these tanks in their collection for years, and still do! Yes, from well-known breeders with decades invested in the hobby, to the more recent, self-proclaimed keyboard herpetologists! (Don’t get it twisted, we’re all aware of these characters) Anyway, people have even made vertical conversions with these tanks and were very creative in options. Some Ranitomeya species are perfectly fine with this volume of space. But going back to Joe’s needs, it’s really to get started and so we will indulge in the obsession - The 10 gallon tank CAN be used…. to start (as a growout enclosure)… for these reasons:
1) Frogs are often sold at a value when purchased as froglets, so we’re assuming that Joe will NOT be purchasing a proven, breeding pair to start. These tanks are great to raise froglets of just about any of the sub-species of Dendrobatidae. The small footprint allows them to spend less time chasing down prey.
2) It allows the inexperienced hobbyist time to observe the behavior of the frog(s) and understand the routines of dart frog keeping.
3) It allows the hobbyist to envision what is needed WHEN they finally upgrade to a larger enclosure. (i.e. accessibility, air flow, fruit-fly proofing, drainage, and other desired features). Having this as a temporary grow-out will give you TIME to plan the permanent vivarium and build it.
4) PROVE you can keep these creatures alive and healthy. Otherwise, you’ve basically just wasted about 5 frappucino’s worth of funds (or more)… doh! wait, I forgot the shipping-cost when I ordered the frogs online so make that 10 venti frapps-worth. But that is clearly overshadowed by the fact that you’ve just killed an innocent creature of this earth. ( I digress)
5) Again, since this does not take up a large footprint it can easily be move around or transported to other locations. It’ll be lighter and easier to manage.
(this is the part of the blog where the keyboard experts are salivating at the opportunity to prove me wrong. “but… but… but” It’s unbearable, I know. Sorry, I didn’t enable comments like most articles,… yet. You’ll get your turn.)
Let’s move on.
What type of frog will I be housing in this vivarium?
Let me just interject briefly and say that this blog is intended to be thought-provoking with the best intentions in mind. Don’t allow my sarcasm to get in the way of learning and you considering my ideas. These ideas are just my opinions. And they’re like @$$holes - everyone’s got one.
So let’s talk options. Again, in Joe's example above, its alright to host just about any of the known sub-species and I’ll only mention a few common ones for now. In his horizontal orientation, the 20”x12”x10” volume of a 10 gallon fish tank will allow for small groups of baby “ground-dwellers” or terrestrial-centric species. These include Dendrobates Tinctorius, Dendrobates Auratus, Dendrobates Leucomelas, Adelphobates Galactonotus, Phyllobates Terribilis/Bicolor, or Epipedobates Anthonyi. Not an inclusive list but a good set to start. With that, the idea is a small group of each type and NOT a group that comprises of one of each sub-species. Also by group, I would say a 3-4 maximum and depending on OOW (out-of-water) age in that 10 gallon housing.
Sample 10 gal vivarium - temporary enclosure for a group of Dendrobates Tinctorius froglets (3-4mo. OOW). With Tincman LED* 16” strip light
Typically, mixing subspecies in a single enclosure is frowned upon and for the most part, not a good idea. This is a highly controversial topic that has been argued over again and again, and will continue to be argued for many years thereafter. I will, however, counter-argue this point by saying that some breeders are guilty of raising froglets of different sub-species in the same temporary vivarium for short periods of time. But this practice is definitely a temporary arrangement that don’t go on for more than a few months. Here are good reasons to ponder.
CONS:
When certain hormones kick in with juvenile frogs, territorial aggression can occur. Behaviors vary from species to species
Stress can easily occur as some frogs have different prey drives and movement speed. You can starve froglets when you co-habitate them with faster species who can get to the food faster. Faster frogs will get to the flies while slow ones will not get to them and lose interest.
Co-habitation may contaminate and possibly spread unwanted disease across multiple enclosures and livestock, since presumably the respective parents of the froglets were not raised in the same enclosure
Growth (size/weight) will vary from species to species. This may cause additional stress to young froglets as growth rates are different and they can get trampled on or even pushed out for the best hiding spots
Marginally accepted reasons for these practices:
Poison dart frogs are sight predators and a feeding frenzy can trigger suitable feeding response
SPACE. Sometimes breeders just don’t have the space to have a separate grow-out for each type. That is, until they get sold or moved to their permanent homes
Bottom line is, if you can avoid it, please adhere to NOT mixing species when they are froglets. And more importantly, when they become juvenile to adult frogs, the gray area does not even apply anymore - JUST DON’T DO IT! I can get into this in more detail later but DON’T, JUST DON’T.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS consider the well-being of the frogs before you consider your own selfish interests. This applies for the mixing rule, as well as others. You owe it to them as their caretakers and PLEASE take that responsibility to heart and stick to best husbandry practices. (Or, you can be an asshole and ignore what’s best for the animal. Thus, prompting me to send Carole Baskin after you and your husband.)
We can address question 3 here, as well. We’ve already covered the point on the terrestrial species earlier in this section.
For more arboreal species such as Ranitomeya and Oophaga (as the more popular ones) you can keep them in that horizontal orientation but it is not ideal and you will most likely have a shorter timeframe to migrate them into a larger enclosure. Certainly one with more vertical spacing. Also, it’s been my experience that the smaller thumbnail species (Ranitomeya Imitators) and mostly Oophaga Pumilio to mature quicker and display aggression towards each other - A 6 month old Ranitomeya Imitator can start bullying others well before a 6 month old Dendrobates Tinctorius can do it to each other. Please keep that in mind.
What is my budget?
Now this is where it starts to get more interesting. Up to know, I’ve pushed for the most basic and budget-conscious option, while still providing insight and showing you the right way to start off in the hobby. At this point, the idea is that you’ve become accustomed to keeping your froglets alive and that they’re thriving under your care. Or are they?
“Pop Quiz, Hotshot!”
Thriving? or Surviving? Does your frog look like this?
If it looks like that, I’m sorry but you’re not doing something right. If you’ve kept a frog for at least 2 months, they should not look emaciated like the picture above. “Do not pass Go, do NOT collect $200.” Let’s revisit some feeding guidelines and fruit-fly culturing in another blog. It’s not too late. *insert link here* ( BTW, I took that picture off Google from some Reddit article. I have no rights to that picture and simply using it as an example.)
That’s more like it. What a 4 month old D. Tinctorius should look like.
Okay, assuming your frogs are healthy and you’re now looking to move them to permanent housing. Congratulations! You’ve just earned the right to burn more money into this hobby! Yay! That’s okay though, because it’s cool and I would take my frog with me on airplanes as support animals if I could. What?
Unfortunately, we all have limited funds. Not everyone has deep pockets or unlimited sources of expendable cash so let’s be methodical with this and explore our options. Let’s evaluate.
1) Re-cycle some larger fish tanks, like a 40 gallon breeder, 29/30 gallon high, 55 gallon
2) Go the Exo-terra* route with a popular sizes like the 18x18x24 inches, or the 36x18x18. There’s the 36x18x36, and the extremely tall sky scraper one. Needless to say, they have options
3) Go with custom vivariums and have them made by the likes of Chris Sherman (Sherman Tanks*) or anyone who fabricates custom enclosures
4) Get your own glass, and build your own
5) Go with an InSitu* vivarium built exclusively for dart frogs
6) Buy a pre-built vivarium by someone who specializes in them (Vivariums in the Mist*) or a used one from someone who’s getting out of the hobby (these are 2 separate things but I’ll couple them together for now)
* Disclaimer: I have no affiliations with these links above nor paid to endorse their products. I’m simply referencing them here as I’ve personally had experience with them.
All these options have their pro’s and con’s.
Option number 1:
Notice that I didn’t list the 10 gallon tank as we’ve already established it’s place in the hobby and while it is a great option for raising your baby frogs, it is NOT AN IDEAL long term solution. So, onto bigger and better things.
In the theme of recycling, we probably have some bigger tanks laying around or perhaps get a great deal on them via Craigslist or garage sale.
Pros #1: It’s often cheap and easily accessible. You can start with your obsession as soon as possible.
Well, that’s just about it for the pros. Here are considerations why you probably do not want to go this route.
#1: By now, you’ve realized that you want to view your frogs, unobstructed. That’s why you got them in the first place, right?! Well, if you’ve not accounted for proper ventilated lid options, you’ll always run into humidity issues. Believe me, it’s frustrating to have such a beautifully laid out vivarium but when the top is on, you can hardly get a clear view.
Yeah, yeah, there’s the thing about fans pointed to the front. You can get fancy and all, but it doesn’t end there with other issues you can try and fix. Read on.
#2: Speaking of tops, you’ll have to use a custom top because the ones that go with the tank does not completely cover the opening to keep fruitflies from walking out of. And yes, give them the smallest crack and YOU will get escapees. Flightless fruit flies only go one way…UP. Additionally, the hinges on these versa tops gives flies adequate space in the elbows to crawl out of.
So, you can fabricate a top from a custom glass shop or cut your own, to spec. But now your cost just went up.
Also, when I said your life may depend on it, this just happens to fall in that category when your wife/girlfriend/boyfriend is screaming at the top of their lungs how many more fruitflies have ended up on their water/coffee/pillow, etc. Save a life… your own.
#3: Who likes to access the vivarium from the top, anyway? If you know anything about frogs, the moment they see a large shadow from up top, they will run away and hide. While after some repetitive training, your frogs may get used to it, but really, this point goes beyond that.
When a vivarium grows in, trimming the plant from up top is just a pain. Plus, you’ll need really long arms, added joints, and small hands to get to all the nooks that you want to get to. Unless you’re an octopus, this wont be fun. Trust me. Oh, and if you have to catch your frogs for any reason… Fughetaboutit!
#4: Drill, Drill. You’ve also realized by now that there will be an accumulation of standing water in the false bottom section. If not removed, this becomes septic and gross. Others who have planned for siphon access often do this by adding covered PVC or plastic tube that can get this water out. But honestly, that’s a headache and downright disgusting as you will deal with clogs and potentially ingesting this water.
Hobbyists have fixed this by drilling something to provide a small bulkhead and drain as it accumulates. This is the best way when using a fish tank and PLEASE use only diamond bit FOR GLASS for drilling. (Oh, and don’t forget to check if it’s tempered, because you cannot drill tempered glass) When I was breeding a ton of frogs in the mid-2000’s, I had tanks lined up together, plumbed accordingly on a baker’s rack. While that worked, it had it’s own set of challenges - I’ve managed to crack a few tanks when I needed to move things around. And yes, you’ll need to move things around eventually.
#5: Chances are you’ll probably want to get a second vivarium, or third, or fourth, or 80th. So, picturing a wall of fish tanks, that you’ll need to access from up top, doesn’t quite scale well. You’ll want to make the most of your space and stacking vivariums with front access is the best way. This is harder with a fish tank. Just picture any fish store and how they have to reach from the top, etc.
Conclusion for #1:
As much as it sounds like a great idea being inexpensive, I DO NOT recommend this beyond the 10 gallon size. The 20L tank is an exception but really if you want to save yourself trouble and time, plan to build something else. I’m not stopping you from doing it but just know it will have its own challenges. On the topic of budgets, you would need to account for more $$$ for custom tops with vents, fruit fly proofing, & drill bits. In the end, you’re better off not doing it. There are better options.
To add….
I’m a photographer so I want the least amount of glass between me and the sensor of my camera. Adding one more doesn’t produce the best images.
We also didn’t cover the idea behind front opening conversions, etc. While that is a great option, it probably lends itself to more of option 4. We’ll get there.
Option number 2:
We’ve seen these enclosures all over. Exo-Terra and Zoo-med have made this a well-known option with the double door (Exo-terra) and single door (Zoo-med) option in the 18x18x24 sizes, respectively.
When I first saw these years ago, I was ecstatic and thought these were IT - the solution to all my needs. They work for all the other arboreal geckos, reptiles, why not frogs, right?!
Pros #1: FRONT OPENING!!! Great! I can access my vivarium and take pictures from the front!
Pros #2: Removable top. Additional access point when building out my background and better ventilation.
Pros #3: It’s stack-able! Sort of… Technically, they can stack on top of each other but since we all use lights, we don’t take advantage of this feature but ideally, you can stack these on a rack without having to access anything from the top. Just leave some room for the lights.
Pros #4: Front venting for less humidity accumulating on the front glass. (This has a downside, too, unfortunately)
Now for the considerations and some cons.
#1: Price. Brand new, these things are costly (at the time of writing, these are around $120-$180, depending on where you are getting, plus added shipping, if purchased online. The price is for the 18x18x24, which IMO is the smallest you should go) and STILL require a bit of modifications to make it completely dart-frog-ready. You can get deals on these used and almost always can see them on Craigslist from folks that have previously used them for geckos, etc. But it is still often more expensive than your fish tanks.
Buying used can also be very sketchy as you can potentially introduce pathogens, bacteria, etc. Most people getting out of pet hobbies aren’t always forthright with their reasons or intent. “Did the previous inhabitants die? and if so, why?” - “Oh, no, I’m just getting out of the hobby, and sold off the gecko”….. Right… Bleach that fucker… and the Exo-terra… okay, just the Exo-Terra.
#2: Screen Top. One of the biggest requirements for keeping poison dart frogs is humidity. It comes with a screen top that’s basically useless for our purposes and will eventually rust. I know people who have fabricated acrylic tops to put on top of the screen, but that will eventually warp ( trust me ) and you still will rust the screen. AND… add to the cost right there.
Screen top DOES NOT equal fruit fly proof! Nuff said about it. I don’t care who you talk to, but that screen top will bleed escapees on the corners where it meets the plastic.
One solution for this is to fabricate or customize a nearly square full-glass top, that you can silicone at the edges. This will be Fruit-fly-proof. I’ve done this before but is still not the best solution.
BEST solution, in my opinion, custom glass tops by Chris Sherman, either purchased directly from him or from Tincman Herps*. Here’s the link and a picture:
Why I feel this is the best option? Experience. I currently use this on the Exo-Terra's I use and I honestly feel they address all the concerns. You don’t need to fully understand air flow dynamics but having a top vent, in conjunction with the front ones built into the Exo-Terra’s, will give you the best of ventilation needed for both your frogs and the plants. Silicone this top for full measure and you will be fruit-fly proof from the top as it is made-to-fit. Lastly, it has a drilled hole on top for misting nozzle option! A bonus feature we haven’t even talked about - Automated misting.
But again, this comes with a cost. Worth it, in my opinion, but additional $$$, nonetheless.
#3 Even with the custom top, it’s still not quite fruit-fly proof. But that’s just asking for perfection, right?! To be honest, as much as Exo-Terra has done a good job of putting those vents in the front, they hadn’t fully accounted for Drosophila Melanogaster, or even Drosophila Hydei. The tendency is for flies to go up and so they will not be escaping from the top if it’s sealed with glass or the custom top, but they will eventually find their way out through the front vents.
Conclusion for #2:
Certainly less to consider, a bit more costly, and with some modifications, nearly perfect. I still have about 6 of these vivariums in my collection to date. Great option!
Here is an Exo-Terra 18x18x24 with a view of the custom top.
Option number 3:
Custom through a craftsman/manufacturer will always yield the best results, hands down. They’re typically made to your specs, dimensions, etc. BUT the number one downside, $$$ COST. I’m not going to comment on pricing as I’m not one to divulge this information on behalf of the fabricators out there, but good work is not cheap and this is a labor of love, so expect to pay a premium.
I have some custom made tanks in my collection, like a front opening 40 breeder front conversion that Chris Sherman made for me years ago. These have the front top and bottom vents as per the Euro-spec and I think these are just awesome. Not entirely custom, but downright close. I will say, however, that I had to drill my own misting nozzles as I did not ask for this at the time of ordering. It wasn’t necessary at the time. AND, since it’s a 40 Breeder, the bottom is tempered, so no drilling the back for a drain. I’ve addressed this another way. (ask me how).
Conclusion for #3:
Cost is going up but if you want a nice looking, fully functioning, and no-headache option, these are great. Just remember, more options = most COST.
BEFORE I MOVE ONTO THE OTHER OPTIONS, I’m going to say something that may resonate to people, or may not. But in my 40 years of existence and why I bust my ass every day at my job, I can wholeheartedly say that this is the best advice someone (older than me) has given:
“It’s expensive to be cheap”
Let that sink in for a second, and remember all the other times you tried to go with a cheaper option, only realizing that you should have just ponied up the cost for doing it right in the first place. This can be said for home improvements, car purchases, or even marriages…
Let’s keep going.
Option number 4:
For all the DIYers out there, this is your option. Many have gone this route and have made amazing enclosures out of random, used furniture or recycled equipment. Think, Home Depot slogan, “You can build it. We can help”.
Pros #1: You have the freedom to create anything, and everything. You can extract some plans out there, or inspect some enclosures that inspire you. Some of the best ideas come from past builds and how you can make it work for you. For example, people have waterproofed old cabinets and someone even did a shower stall installation as a vivarium, if my memory serves me right. Older forums, like Dendroboard, may still retain some how-to’s that people have shared.
Pros #2: Cost can be minimized if, AND ONLY IF, you can find materials, (namely glass) companies that can sell at a discount. Chances are, you’d have to consider bulk orders to make it cost effective.
Pros #3: You have the time to get everything just right. This is, after all, just how you like it. And it’s your brain child materialized through the fruits of your blood, sweat, and tears. So there’s value in that. (Personally, I’ve never cried making a vivarium but I’ve done the other two in that statement.)
Now the considerations:
#1: Are you good with your hands and a skilled craftsman?
You see, I went to one of the oldest engineering schools in the US for my undergraduate degree (I’ll save you the Google lookup, it’s Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute) and I’ve been surrounded by ingenuity, innovation and creativity. Most of these engineers are pretty damn smart people. But smart doesn’t always guarantee you skills with your hands. Most of these people are downright clumsy. That’s probably why there are thinkers and there are do’ers. Now, if you’re both, then kudos to you because you’ll need it with a project like this.
Otherwise, you’ll have a silicone’d mess that looks nothing like you envisioned.
#2: You have to be precise and secure the exact materials you need. Remember that glass is not like wood where you can just trim down for inaccuracies. You have to be exact before you cut or have it cut. And last I checked, glass ain’t cheap.
Another example is you’ll need to source a good manufacturer for specific items like the track/rail for the sliding glass doors. Make sure that the measurements line up with the thickness of the glass you use and that it fits nicely together once it’s assembled and set.
Chances are you’re not going to get it right on the first try, so add prototypes and tests to your overall cost.
#3: Time = Money. Simple cost, benefit analysis. Is it really worth it for you to spend many hours trying to get it right? What’s your hourly rate in you current job, any job (approximate)? Multiply that to the hours you spent on the enclosure, and add that onto the cost of supplies to make up the SUM / NET COST.
This is clearly subjective, by the way. Personally, I consider myself very handy but I would rather use time in the workshop doing something else, or making money. If the dollars make sense and you’ve built the perfect enclosure, then by all means.
Option number 6**:
** I intentionally skipped 5 as I realized it works better to flow from Option 4
Build it… or just BUY IT COMPLETE and be over with it. No hassle, no waiting, no mistakes. This can be the MOST EXPENSIVE option but trouble-free. You can be enjoying your new display piece in the middle of your living room. Your frogs are happy, so you’re happy.
I know services that offer this. For instance, I’ve seen the Vivariums in the Mist show room a couple times, in the flesh. Great source of ideas, but I also think that some of the displays are for sale. If anything, the displays are inspiration for any work you might want to get done by Paulie and the team - with premium plants and supplies, of course. Don’t quote me on that, but you can inquire yourself if you’re in the NYC Metro area.
Again, not affiliated, but I know that it’s a service that can be done for a fee.
Not much to describe about this option. If you don’t have the time, don’t have the supplies, don’t have the creativity, then let a professional build it for you. The displays are sick so you’re definitely getting your money’s worth.
But all in all, Money talks in this option.
Option number 5:
Okay, InSitu Ecosystems.
I left this one for last as it’s been the newest entry to the game but if you want the cliff notes here:
The BEST option
Is it perfect? No, but close.
If you want to understand why, read on.
Pros #1: ALL-IN-ONE option(s). Clearly Bill (& the think-tank) over at InSitu Ecosystems have thought about nearly all that goes into the vivariums and made one that incorporates much of what we’ve been looking for. I’ll list the features I personally care about:
Slanted thermoplastic base - what this means is that you don’t need to create a false-bottom as post-mist runoff goes to the front drainage compartment. Not to mention it sheds a great deal of weight.
Built-in drainage on the lowest point of the base - this means less stagnant water and even as it drains from the front, it flows to the back with an unobtrusive fitting to connect to a hose.
Three misting holes at the top - I don’t think you NEED all 3 but mist away to you heart’s content. (misting nozzle not included)
Close-able vents at the top front AND top rear - More air flow = happier plants. AND less stagnant air inside the vivarium for your frogs.
22” total width, which is wider than the Exo-Terra and Zoomed equivalents
Sliding doors have silicone beading between the panes of glass so that it prevents fruit flies from crawling in between. For those currently with sliding door fronts, you know that this is key to preventing escapees
They have other options that I didn’t care to mention because for me the features up there are all that I care about. Best of all, they come standard on the base model.
Pros #2: Light-weight. When you remove the front glass panes and glass piece on the top rear vent, the entire thing is really light. Heck, it’s light with them on. But the point is, it makes hard-scaping and creating custom backgrounds so much easier since you normally have to put the tank on its back, etc.
Pros #3: Price is fair, VERY fair. Now, I’m just talking about the base model, here, the Selva. Currently, it’s priced at $220 + $50 shipping. It’s a great value in my opinion. This does not include add-ons, like a lighter back piece (Alumalite) which can be added, or any of the lighting, integrated fans, etc. At $270 shipped to your house, you can’t complain. Let’s compare the cost of building out a brand new Exo-Terra alternative:
18x18x24 : Avg retail price of $150 plus shipping ($40)
Custom top ($50) plus shipping ($20) - actually, this is an estimate. Not sure if these things ship.
Okay, so that gets us to $260, (so you save $10)
BUT… we didn’t factor the weight savings, need to drill for a drain and silicone for the top. What’s that worth to you? To me, a helluvalot more considering that I risk cracking the Exo-Terra when I drain or expose the bulkhead.
“But Erick, I can always get the Exo’s used and save at least $50!”
This is true, and I cannot deny the savings. But the piece of mind that a brand new, “nearly” complete set up can be delivered to my door (with exquisite packaging, BTW), is well worth the few extra dollars. You’ll end up blowing that difference in some expensive plants, anyway.
Considerations:
#1: It’s not perfect. Close, but not perfect. Keep in mind that all these tanks are hand-built so there is slight variance between builds. I got the Selva (base) and the Amazonia (Top) models, so I feel like I can compare. I also received them about 2 weeks apart from each other.
The Selva version didn’t completely seal on the left door pane. I didn’t notice this during my background build and as I was hardscaping the vivarium. Then again, I didn’t have the doors in place until I finished. I noticed that in this particular one, there was a slight angle on the track that doesn’t completely seal the corner. (And you know my take on fruit-fly proofing.) Interestingly enough, this was NOT the case on the Amazonia version, as that sealed, as expected. I fixed this slight issue by putting some clear tape on the corner to extend the glass slightly - It’s FF-proof now.
The Amazonia version, however, stays too sealed. I’ve noticed that there are notches on the door tracks that assist in keeping it in place. It would get stuck occasionally if the track is too dry. I alleviate this by spraying some water on the tracks, and this usually does the trick. This was NOT the case on the Selva model I received, as that one slides with no problems. Perhaps it is the Spectral Designs LED light that may warp the rail? I’m not entirely sure.
Speaking of LED lighting. This is an optional add-on but comes in the Amazonia version. It’s very bright and a bit on the warmer light output scale as compared to the other Tincman LED’s I use. BUT, my only gripe…. it gets too hot at the touch. That’s why I don’t particularly care for it. I can get similar results using the tried and true Tincman LED without creating a large temperature gradient from the top of the vivarium to the bottom. Good news on this front though, as it comes with an adjustable dimmer so you decrease the input and controlling the heat it generates.
The Amazonia has some really cool fans that you can plug into a separate timer. Honestly, with all the venting options, I wont be needing this. My bromeliads and orchids are doing just fine without it. But it’s part of the package so I was able to test it out. If left on for a long time, it will dry out your vivarium, so use sparingly and with care. I just don’t use them.
Tabs should not be on the bottom corner of the doors. This is basic physics of balance and weight. You have more leverage in the center mass of the object. This pertains to the sliding glass doors. Having them on the bottom corners doesn’t make sense to me. The only reason I can think of is to provide unobstructed views into the vivarium. Not my design but I guess I can live with it.
#2: Only comes in one size. Is this really an issue? I know people have preferences for larger enclosures but the footprint and vertical design is perfect for:
PAIRS of : Dendrobates Tinctorius (Max anyway for this species) | Oophaga (ANY)
TRIOS of Phyllobates (Terribilis/Bicolor/Vittatus) | Dendrobates (Auratus/Leucomelas) | Adelphobates Galactonotus
A GROUP of Epipetobates (ANY small), and Ranitomeya (ANY)
Conclusion:
It’s got its quirks but if you take into consideration all the things you really NEED in a vivarium, it is the most complete, commercially available vivarium in the market today.
>>>> Full transparency here - This is an unbiased, unsolicited, and unpaid review.
InSitu Amazonia build - Currently housing (4) juvie Oophaga Histrionica Large Form Redheads
Okay, so there you have it. All the options: The Good, the Bad, the Ugly.
Where will I be putting this vivarium?
Last section but certainly not the least important. There are lots of questions posted that lead to this topic because I constantly see an array of complaints associated with people’s frogs not being visible, feeding issues, and even frog deaths. In most cases, placement of the vivarium and its surrounding environment plays the biggest role.
Your poison dart frog is a tropical (& sub-tropical), diurnal animal, which should tell you a few things already. It will be active when there is light and requires fairly constant temperatures. Please place them in an area of the house where you have some control over the lighting and temperature. Factor in the light source above the vivarium as well, as this will provide heat from above and prompt a temperature drop when the lights go out. If you’re in a house that also drops temperatures at night, then that’s a double whammy. Glass is not the best insulator so you will run into major issues.
Keep an eye on in-vivarium temperatures as this will greatly affect acclimation and overall health of the animal. This can be done by buying a cheap $5 digital thermometer with probe and keeping a record on daytime and nighttime stats. A fluctuation of anything more than 10 degrees when the lights go out is NOT ideal. And temps should be around 73F-75F during the day and never below 65F at any point. This is a guideline, of course, but if it swings greater than that, you’re really asking for trouble.
Early in this blog article, I mentioned the use of a 10 gallon tank to let you understand some of the factors surrounding proper frog-keeping. Use this opportunity to figure out where you should be placing your vivarium permanently. Ideally, you should test all these parameters BEFORE putting the frogs INSIDE. (Common sense to most, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t get this point.) Yes, as I said it, BEFORE you get a frog! So that means you’re probably nursing a vivarium (with thermometer and full lighting setup) BEFORE the actual frog arrives. This preparation concept works on human babies so I don’t see why you can’t do the same thing. No one I know gives birth and then buys baby supplies the day it arrives, like “Oh damn, this baby came out of nowhere and now I have to go buy things I need for it”. I hope you get the point - PLAN accordingly.
This should be common sense but I’ll list anyway:
Avoid areas where there are drafts (near windows)
Avoid areas where heat/cooling delivery can change overnight, or over the seasons
SAY NO to heating pads/heat tape. It’s just not needed, or recommended. Thermostats fail all the time and unfortunately, our frogs are not too tolerant of drastic changes. And honestly, if you need to heat the vivarium for any reason, then you need to seriously consider if a poison dart frog suits your lifestyle and living conditions.
Stress, of all things can be the demise of your frog and it’s a silent killer. Stress can be induced on either ends of the temperature spectrum. Lower temps are more difficult because as a cold-blooded animal, they need heat to increase metabolism. If your temperatures are too cold, then maybe that’s why your frog isn’t eating, and it will ultimately starve.
LASTLY…
These are just simple guidelines to consider and by no means, the ultimate frog commandments set in stone. I urge you to ask plenty of meaningful questions and most of them start typically start with “WHY?”. This will help you as a better hobbyist for years to come and certainly be a great caretaker to your frog(s).
Final thought… (and this is a difficult one for A LOT of people)
If you can, please learn to separate the notion of “I WANT”(as the frog keeper) from the actual NEEDS of the your animal. We’ve been given a great responsibility of caring for these amazing creatures. Let’s always strive to do the right thing, and not what WE WANT.
examples:
“I WANT to keep more than one type of dart frog in a vivarium”
“I WANT to make a paludarium and keep dart frogs in it”
“I WANT to breed poison dart frogs“
These topics and more on an upcoming blog.
Thank you for getting this far.